Astrophotography where should histogram be

Mehr als 100 Teleskope Kostenloser Versand und Rückversan Teleskop-Zubehör zu Bestpreisen. Riesige Auswahl und 24h Lieferung A typical astrophotography histogram for a single sub loaded and rendered linearly will usually appear to be less exposed than it may have appeared either in a back of camera preview histogram, or in most standard image processors Most of the pixels in an astrophoto will be concentrated in the left part of a histogram, because most of the area of the photo will be covered by the sky. So, the histogram will have a mountain close to its left side. Our goal is to shift that mountain to the right. But by how much A histogram is a graph of the number of pixels at the values shown on the bottom of the graph. The bottom of the graph ranges from black on the left, to white at the far right

Dark sky targets, nebulae, galaxies, etc... usually produce a histogram in the left 1/3 and brighter objects will skew the curve towards the right. As you mentioned, this time of the year in your location is jsut plain HOT so your images will have a prominent & annoying amp glow on the left Histogram The Histogram is accessible from Tools tab or with Alt+H shortcut. The Histogram Aid is an important and powerful feature that can be used to see if image is properly exposed or to make Screen Stretch or Levels over image to see fainter details. This is on screen operation and the saved image is not altered Keep it in the middle with no overexposed or underexposed areas. Graph shouldn't be maxed out on first or last section of it. Normally best looking one are shape similar to Hill with details recorded in every section of histogram. Five Reasons You Should Be Shooting Astrophotography; More . Related Articles. Education / December 1, 2019. Reading the title, I was thinking There is no one correct way the histogram should.

That histogram is about what you're looking for. A touch too far right (only 20% over if the x axis scale tops out at 100%), not enough to matter. This is 100% correct. There is no such thing as vertical clipping, it just typically (and annoyingly) goes off the bounds of the histogram Astrophotography using a camera lens - The North America Nebula in Cygnus Astrophotography has the reputation of being expensive, but to partake in this rewarding hobby all you really need is a camera and a view of the night sky above. You can set up in your backyard, a balcony or any outdoor space that includes a view of the night sky With the right level of brightness and evenly lit filter (like a T-shirt), AV mode will take an excellent flat frame with the press of a button. Depending on your camera and telescope configuration, you should see some slight vignetting and even dust particles in your flat frame. When in doubt, have a look at the histogram. The flat frame below. I know some have advocated that proper exposure for AP is garnered by keeping the histogram at around 1/4-1/3, but I've found that star images are too dark and found more pleasing images with the histogram 2/3 of the way to the right The histogram is all crammed to the left. Gently move the middle slide towards the histogram, without touching it. As a result, the image brightens and the Flame Nebula (circled in orange) is now begin to show. Click OK. Now, open the Levels panel again. The histogram is a bit wider now and has cleared the left edge of the graph

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In deep sky astrophotography, image stretching, also known as histogram stretching, is the process of iteratively using levels and curves to slowly extract details from the seemingly dark background. Astrophotography software such as Siril , PixInsight , and Astro Pixel Processor have routines to perform the histogram stretching A natural question at this point may be to what values should the gain/ISO and offset be for your camera and astrophotography application I wish I could answer that here, I really do . However there is one more important aspect involving another piece of hardware that affects your pixel bucket called the Analog to Digital Converter Next, use a narrowband H-alpha filter, the narrower the better. This filters away much of your skyfog. You should then find that you need much longer sub-exposures to keep that 10% gap on the histogram, perhaps as much as 2-minutes at f4, but your SNR with a couple of hours integration time should be very nice on those red nebulae This should always be done in the linear stage and won't render good results in general if the data is no longer linear. Histogram adjustment. A lot of people will simply adjust the color channels of the histogram in such a way that they align the channels. What aligning actually means can actually be different

Astrophotography Basics: Signal, Noise and Histograms

  1. The histogram is probably the most important tool available in any astro-imaging application, both for capturing images and for processing them once captured. For those just starting out in astrophotography, the histogram is also one of the simplest but most frequently misunderstood tools
  2. What should a Milky Way histogram look like? I know the basics of Milky Way photography -- focusing, exposure length, etc., but I can't shake the feeling that I am missing something. The shot below was taken at about 4 am on June 17, 2021 in Townsend, Tennessee, looking out over Great Smoky Mountains National Park
  3. A histogram is a plot of intensity on the horizontal axis and number of pixels in a narrow intensity range (a bin) on the vertical axis. An 8-bit image has an intensity range from 0 to 255; 16-bit image has a range of 0 to 65535. The basics of the effects of the curves tool are shown in Figure 1d

The histogram area is divided in 5 logical sectors. For astro imaging is good to inspect the all the channels and to select exposure / ISO combination that places the peaks in the second or/and third sector. This gives images that after stacking allow easier post-processing Astrophotography is a wonderful and rewarding hobby. But it's not the easiest type of photography to master and it can be difficult even for skilled photographers. You need passion, dedication, knowledge, and planning skills in order to be successful in astrophotography. Judge your exposure at night by checking the histogram and expose to. Photography should be about what comes out of the camera, not the processing . . . yeah, right. A modern DSLR does a tremendous amount of processing for you. If you are using a scientific camera for astrophotography, you have to correct for all kinds of things yourself, or else The trick is to get a histogram that is about 3/4 of the way over to the left. Too far to left and you don't have enough difference between your object and the background of space, too far to the right and you may lose some of the brightest details of your object from the data getting clipped off Über 7 Millionen englischsprachige Bücher. Jetzt versandkostenfrei bestellen

5 Incredibly Useful Astrophotography Photoshop Editing Tips

How to Use a Histogram for Better Star Photos Nature TT

Introduction to Astrophotography The exposure should be long enough to put the mountain peak of the histogram about 1/3 of the way over from the left wall of the histogram box (see examples below). Then push the histogram to the right to reach the 1/3 point by increasing the ISO Using the Histogram as an exposure guide. Thomas 0.00. # 12 Mar, 2017 21:56. 0 likes. Still trying to learn some of the basics but how effective is using the histogram at determining exposure length? Some of my early attempts have the histogram peak going above the max y value on the graph, hence maxing out that region Clipping For optimal processing, the histogram should be examined before and after each significant step. One of the most important uses of the histogram is to see if the values are clipped.A histogram that is not clipped has left and right tails that decline to zero before reaching the sides of the chart.. Clipping can occur on the dark end (left) of the histogram or on the bright end (right) The obvious candidate, Brightness and Contrast, should be ignored as it's a sledgehammer and we need to use a more delicate touch. Load your image into photoshop and open the Levels tool (Image > Adjustments > Levels); this brings up a palette showing a histogram of the image

Same as DSLRs, you want that histogram in the middle. So it should be set to 50%. Under that is the tolerance that you are willing to accept - how far from exactly 50% are you willing to go? I set it to 10% tolerance. So now NINA knows how many Flat and Dark Flat Frames you want, the times they should be between, and the target of the histogram Madratter's AstroImaging. Deconvolution: Next up will be deconvolution. This should be done while the data is still linear (unstretched). This is a good place to pause for a while. Deconvolution is a way of tightening up the detail in your image. It can make stars smaller, and it can bring out detail in your images No. The white balance should be for your subject, not things you want to remove from the final image. In deep sky astrophotography light pollution and airglow is a colored signal that is usually brighter than faint nebulae, stars and galaxies. So you can't see the subject (e.g. faint nebulae and galaxies) to set white balance The ETTR Histogram. With this method, the histogram will be pushed to the right, but not so far that you clip the highlights of the sky. Remember, you're going to clip stars with this method. You can see in the example below that the ETTR histogram is drastically different from the properly exposed histogram

Astrophotography Tips. Nikon Z7, Nikon Z 85mm f/1.8 S, Slik Lite CF 422 Tripod | 8 sec, colorless white dots. So, the main bump of the histogram, the dark night sky itself, should be somewhere in the middle of the histogram, or 1-2 EVs away from the right (highlight) edge, depending on how much color detail you want to retain in the. In the case of astrophotography, the histogram will give you a visual reputation of the data collected in your image. From this information, you will realize if your image is too bright or too dark. If you see that the data in the histogram is 'clipped' on both sides, then you need to adjust the setting of ISO, Aperture, and Exposure Length. For wide-angle astrophotography, one of the best lenses is the Nikon 14-24mm ƒ/2.8 lens, which can be used on Canon cameras with an adapter. This lens is sharp, even at ƒ/2.8. You want a wide-aperture lens to let in the most light possible for your night sky exposures, ƒ/2.8 or greater, although most lenses that are faster than ƒ/2.8 aren.

These are taken at -10 degrees again and according to my camera manufacturer should be at or below 20k ADU average across the whole image. This is an example of my flats - As you can see there's darker corners which will be evident in the image when the processing starts In an ideal world, the graph should just touch the left and right edges of the histogram, and not spill up the sides. The graph should also have a nice arch in the center. However, this ideal histogram doesn't always apply in every situation for every scene. Here are a few examples I set exposure so the histogram is between 1/4 or ideally 1/3 from the left. ISO 1,000-1,600 should be fine, but whatever you use, stick with it and bias/darks need to be the same. Flats can be. The histogram is particularly helpful. The sky background will make up the bulk of the mountain of the histogram in an astrophoto, and the exposure should usually be long enough so that this mountain is completely separated from the left wall of the histogram box Flat frames are a type of light frame, taken with an evenly illuminated light panel to correct for minor vignette, sensor mottling (if any), as well as dust and other stray particles that get into your imaging train (on reducers, the sensor window, or filters). This type of calibration frame tends to be the trickiest to capture properly. It's recommended you use the same gain/offset or ISO.

The easiest way to take flats, is to use AV mode and let the camera to decide our exposure length. This is very handy especially if you taking SKY Flats. When sky brightness slowly changing, the camera will readjust the exposure length accordingly. This will also work perfectly well if you use Flat Panel with constant brightness A guide to CMOS deep-sky astrophotography. Try 3 issues for just £5 when you subscribe to BBC Sky at Night Magazine today! With the popularity of CMOS cameras increasing among astrophotographers, we'll show you how they can be used to capture deep-sky objects as well as planets. This competition is now closed

The image is washed out with little detail in it because the histogram is at the default values where FITS Liberator makes a best guess at what the correct settings might be. Depending on your image, it could start out too dark as well - it depends on what FITS Liberator guesses for the starting values for your histogram Welcome to the second installment of our DSLR Astrophotography 101 series! If you missed the first one or need a refresher on the basics, here is the Introductory course. For this blog, we're doing a deep dive into the intricacies of exposure settings. We will cover the methods to expose for maximum data, the interconnections between focal. This tutorial explains step-by-step how to process raw deep-sky images using, at first, the automatic processing capabilities of Siril scripts up to the stacking of the images, then the image improvement features of Siril to produce a final image for Web publication for example. It was made with version, the current stable version in February 2021 (download)

The method is quite simple. Take one photo shortly after sunset using a small aperture like f/11 to get substantial depth of field. Then, keep your tripod in the same spot until the Milky Way rises. Take a second photo at your usual astrophotography settings - say, f/1.8 and focused on the stars For astrophotography use, there is absolutely no point in using an ISO beyond that when the amplifier gain is a maximum. Using a higher ISO that this will simply increase the brightness of all parts of the image equally as, for example, the stars Astrophotography, Pixel by Pixel: Part 5 - One Shot Color, Monochrome Sensors, and Filters Astrophotography, Pixel by Pixel: Part 6 - Dirty Buckets and Calibration Frames Each article has some great information, but I highly recommend that you read over at least Part 6, as a large part of what follows relies on and is a direct extension of the. How to obtain flat frames. Flat frames) are obtained by pointing the telescope at a uniformly illuminated field with the same optical image calibration, ie without moving the camera or the focus so that the light path is exactly the same. Twilight sky - at dawn or dusk when the telescope is pointed to a semi dark area of the sky with no visible.

Beginner's Guide to Deep-Sky Astrophotography

How Do You Know You Have A Good Image - Interpreting The

The histogram indicates that image is exposed to the left a bit. A more neutral exposure, with the peak closer to the center, would have been better. This one should work, though. White Balance. The white balance will have the biggest impact on how the overall Milky Way image looks. It is also largely a matter of personal preference Learn astrophotography and take pictures of the wonders of the universe like the Moon, planets, comets, stars, nebulas, galaxies, eclipses, meteor showers and conjunctions! You will find examples of all the different kinds of astrophotography here, tips for how to take astrophotos, and techniques for processing them to produce beautiful results

Where should the histogram peak be? - Beginning Deep Sky

Original Publish Date: 11-September-2013 Last Revision: 11-April-2016. If you ask us what is the most potent tool a night photographer can wield, we'll tell you: the histogram.. Unfortunately nearly all of the histogram information available seems to spend too much effort talking about what a histogram should look like and not enough time explaining what a histogram is or that there are. 2021 Milky Way Calendar. 1. Use an aperture of f/2.8 or the widest in your lens. The aperture is the first setting that you have to adjust before taking pictures of the Milky Way. To capture our galaxy, it's key to use the best exposure settings to photograph the Milky Way: the aperture, ISO, and shutter speed Best Gear and Settings for Astrophotography. Belgian-Australian timelapse photographer Matt Vandeputte shares his tips for shooting the night sky, with advice on everything from the best camera gear and settings to use, to insider tips and tricks, this is everything you need to know to enhance your astrophotography tonight

Histogram - astrophotography

  1. Editing astrophotography is rather complex and takes some time. The steps you should take vary depending on the quality of the image you are working with. These 5 tips will help you get started in your astrophotography editing journey. If you want to find out more about editing each type of astrophotography, check out this article
  2. Astrophotography is the process of photographing objects in space, such as the moon and the stars, as well as capturing special celestial events like meteor showers and comets. For stargazing professionals, astrophotography is simply a matter of pointing a big-budget telescope at the night sky and letting sophisticated imaging equipment do its.
  3. Here we are with the final installment of our astrophotography series. We've looked at doing astrophotography in the daytime, shooting simple objects at night, and some more advanced equipment and stacking techniques. If you missed any of these, you can catch them here. In this series finale, we're going to take a look at some of the processing techniques to get the most out of your astro.
  4. Astrophotography is more difficult than day-time photography, particularly due to the utter lack of light signal available. This is illustrated by the histograms in Figure 5 and Figure 6 (a histogram is a graphical display of the brightness values or tonal range in an image)
  5. Choosing the Best (Good Enough) ISO for Astrophotography. There's an easy way to test your DSLR camera to find its best low-light ISO performance. The right ISO is about balancing electronic noise against dynamic range. There are few easier ways to start an argument than bringing up technical issues with astronomical imaging in mixed company
  6. The histogram tool in PixInsight is, no doubt, the way a histogram tool should be for processing astro-images. QUICK NOTE: Although I believe no processing tutorial should be understood as a cooking recipe, if you really want to replicate the exact histogram adjustments I did in this example, click on the screenshot to view the large image, and.
  7. Photoshop Techniques for Astrophotography. Basic Image Enhancement Using Curves Click on the point in the extreme lower left corner and drag it to the right until far left region of the histogram reaches the y-axis (see below). One great feature of Photoshop CS is that it allow you to view the histogram of an image as you are working on it

Deep-Sky Image Processing. May 1, 2014. INTRODUCTION: PixInsight (PI), Photoshop, MaximDL and ImagesPlus are examples of software that provides amateur astronomers with a way to turn digital image data into visual art. These programs are very powerful with vast capabilities, and it can be hard to know which processing steps to use and when to use them ZWO ASIAIR PRO WiFi Controller - Field Notes and First Impressions Author: Tom WildonerPublished: April 2020 Edited: April 2020 Add a Comment Figure 1 - The ZWO ASIAIR PROWiFi controller and quick-start guide 1. Overview 2. Setting up the ASIAIR PRO 3. Getting Connected t The Andromeda Galaxy, along with M32 and M110, two dwarf galaxies orbiting M31, is by far the easiest galaxy to image for beginners! Below is our main photograph of the Andromeda Galaxy, taken with a Canon t3i and a total exposure time of 5.5 hours Backyard Astrophotography, Part 3: Capture. W elcome to Part 3 of my guide to Basic Backyard Astrophotography. If you missed Part 1 or Part 2, please click the links and we will see you back on this page in a few minutes. In this segment, we get down to brass tacks on how to capture astrophotos of the night sky These wheels are used to move the focuser tube in and out of the telescope. When you put the eyepiece into the focuser, there is one point in the path where the light comes in focus - focal point. The purpose of the focuser is to get the eyepiece to that point so that you can see the clear image. Seems easy but the focal point is a very small.

Blackwater Skies: How to Interpret an Image Histogram

To gain full Smart Histogram functionality, you should analyse your camera at both it's maximum bit depth (i.e. in RAW12/RAW16/MONO16 mode) and at a bit depth of 8 bits (i.e. in RAW8/MONO8 mode). Sensor analysis is a free feature and does not require a SharpCap Pro license, however users with a SharpCap Pro license can copy the table of. A third non-linear unmasked histogram stretch. Again, we readjust the histogram because after the HDRWT process we have a different scenario that allows a new adjustment. Slight masked sharpening using wavelets. The lightness-based mask here kept noise from being sharpened. Very light masked morphological transform. This process reduced overall.

For astrophotography, none of those auto functions are of any value. We shoot everything on manual. Indeed, the ease of manually focusing in Live View is a key function. In my testing I compared the Sony A7III to two competitive DSLRs, the Canon 6D MkII and Nikon D750 If you are doing lunar or planetary astrophotography, then you can pretty easily hack a cheap webcam for the purpose. Removing the IR Cutoff filter and adding a way to mount it to the telescope is fairly straightforward. Since high quality lunar.. And, of course, astrophotography under dark skies will push your histogram far to the left. A foggy morning on the coast just doesn't have any pure blacks or whites. Sometimes, you'll be shooting an image where there are no blacks or, conversely, no whites

How should a good histogram look like? : AskAstrophotograph

For example, you may want to have a low key image for a moody photoshoot or astrophotography. Or perhaps on a product shoot, you want a high key image for showcasing your product. The histogram can also help with editing. In Lightroom, the histogram will show you specifically where and how much the overall luminosity or colors are represented. On a DSLR the exposure time should be so your histogram is between 1/2 and 2/3 on the back of the camera. Once you have it right, take a bunch. Since you're trying to capture how the dust, etc. was, this should be done right after you're done imaging for the night. You don't want your focus, rotation, etc Astrophotography Lab is available for Windows and Linux. The program uses dcraw to convert DSLR raw images. The histogram peak should be about half the way to the right, and the exposure time shouldn't exceed a few seconds unless the camera is cooled It is difficult to tell here, but the shot at f/1.4 is slightly dark due again to the vignetting problem. The Histogram gives it away. There is also significant star bloat at f/1.4 that goes away as soon as the lens is stopped down. By f/4 noise is becoming a real problem. ISO. High ISO settings do not cause noise. Yep, you read that correctly

Here's How Your Histograms Should Look Fstopper

Come join the newest and most engaging and inclusive astronomy forum geared for beginners and advanced telescope users, astrophotography devotees, plus check out our Astro goods vendors. APT Histogram. Discuss how you are able to get those fantastic images!!! 3 posts • Page 1 of 1. Graeme1858 Co-Administrato The luminosity histogram is used most often, and has a monochromatic display. The color histograms give you an overview of the presence of red, green, and blue pixels in the image. Usually, these histograms are displayed in their specific color spaces, as seen above. Since the luminosity histogram is used most often, let's explore it in more. Exposure length should be at 30 seconds. Check your camera's histogram. As a general preference, the rise should always be somewhere in the middle. More Accessories for Astrophotography. To make things a little easier for yourself, you can obtain a complete imaging system that works with any telescope, such as this one . It is not expensive. The left hand slider should then be brought over to the left hand edge of the histogram to set the black level. Using Curves in GIMP The curve function in GIMP - used several times. Note how the left hand end of the curve has been brought up to the edge of the histogram to bring up the 'black point' of the image

An Introduction to Astrophotography with your X Series. Taking stunning photos of the night sky, capturing crystal clear skies and pin-sharp stars can be tricky for beginners. In this article, Steven Hanna tells you everything you need to know about how to take great Astrophotography photos Come join the newest and most engaging and inclusive astronomy forum geared for beginners and advanced telescope users, astrophotography devotees, plus check out our Astro goods vendors. Try to get the histogram left of center. You may have to add a t shirt or some white paper to dim it down. In the end the proof is in the pudding. Look. The histogram vertical y-axis represents the total number of pixels at each intensity. The digital intensity of jpg images has a range of 2^8 (256) unique values. An astrophotography raw digital image could have 2^16 (65536) unique values. The range of plotted histogram intensity values on the x-axis is typically 256 values Jupiter - The Red, Green and Blue channels should reach ~80-90% on the histogram. Saturn - Red channel should be at ~70%, Green ~50% and Blue ~25-30%. Gain - Gain can be compared to the ISO setting on your digital camera, the higher the gain or ISO the more electronic noise there will be in your images

Using the Histogram as an exposure guide - AstroBi

On either side of the histogram's mode (peak), the bins should show values that taper off as you move further away from the peak. Histogram_555.jpg. There are 4 bins to the left side of the mode that contain pixels, or in other words 1.5% (4/256 * 100%) of your dynamic range is used to describe darker-than-background pixels Astrophotography Basics: SNR. When it comes to getting quality results with astrophotography, in the end one of the primary concerns is SNR. Signal to noise ratio is one of the primary things that affects the quality of an image (one of the primary thingshowever not the only thing, I'll cover others in additional articles. Subject: Outline for Meade Image Processor Sent: Friday, January 26, 2007 10:58:19 From: Ted Rafferty (raff650@erols.com) Below is an outline I use for post processing using the Meade Image Processor on frames from the Meade DSI-I that some of your reader might find useful. The Meade Image Processor is a pretty nice image processor, but the manual for it isn't very well written The tutorial is presented in a very rudimentary fashion to help develop an understanding of basic image processing, which is a combination of art and science. Dark and flat fields should be applied to all images, but what happens beyond that is largely up to the judgement of the person processing the image Exposing to the right, or ETTR, is an approach to photography that is as helpful as it is controversial. On one hand, exposing to the right is yet another technique to remember while shooting, and it can potentially ruin your exposure if utilized incorrectly. On the other hand, at least in theory, ETTR is the epitome of digital exposure

Rogelio Bernal Andreo, Premium Astrophotography

7 Astrophotography Tips (And Camera Settings) To Put Into

First, locate the Orion Nebula. There should be an orange star near to it - it's Betelgeuse. The Orion Nebula, Betelgeuse, and the Rosette Nebula form an imaginary triangle. Look for the Rosette at the left end of it (see at the picture above). If you are not familiar with the night sky, download a free planetary software Stellarium and play. The Basics of Solar Imaging. By: Brian Ventrudo and Manish Panjwani. 9.1 Overview. Visual observation of the Sun, whether in white-light or in narrow band like H-alpha, rewards the observer with ever changing and close-up views of a major star in action

How to Take Flat Frames for Astrophotography [The Easy Way

Since flat frames should have as little noise as possible, it is usually a good idea to set a low gain value. Adjust Exposure to get correct Histogram Shape. Correct exposure is critical for creating good flat frames. The text under in the Histogram Status area of the Capture Flat Frame window will provide guidance on how to achieve this ETTR is simply a technique - just like bracketing, metering, and other photographic techniques. It's a way of shooting images to achieve a specific result. ETTR stands for Expose to the Right. This technique involves overexposing the image so that the majority of the data is on the right of the histogram From editing software to modern-day digital cameras, Histograms are almost everywhere. Understanding how this function works can bring visible improvements in your photography. This article will discuss what histograms are, how understanding these can improve footages and reduce the amount of post-production work, and the impact of histograms on exposure

Using MaskedStretch for better stars | DSLR AstrophotographyAstrophotography Processing Tutorial: From Raw images to

How to take Flat Frames for Astrophotography. This video tutorial will help you visualize the process of taking flat frames. I use what is known as the White T-Shirt method outlined by the creator of DeepSkyStacker in the FAQ section. The telescope uses the t-shirt as a filter when pointed at a bright source of light such as the dawn sky Hello and welcome back to my blog. This post will be one for the absolute beginner and will cover stretching your astro images in Photoshop. One of the main questions I hear from people when the first get into astrophotography is: why are my images so dark after stacking?! The answer is, you need to stretch your image. I'm not really sure on where the term stretching came from when used in. Long-Exposure Astrophotography. Many nature and landscape photographers have an interest in integrating the night sky into their photo portfolio. Typically, this takes the form of star-trail photography or landscapes lit by only the moon. However, the night sky can make an excellent subject on its own, especially with longer exposures Astrophotography 3 Preparing images for use This example illustrates a typical raw scan of a negative in the upper left corner. The Brightness Curve dialog box has been set to Log Histogram (via the Opt button just to the right of the curve) and Histogram mode. The histogram of the image illustrates that the darkest data in the image is much.

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